Tuesday, August 14, 2007
CHT Ballast
Adjusted warmed up CHT resistance to about 225 ohms by adding 150 ohms jumper between CHT sender and harness lead. 225 ohms is lowest value that the ECU can adjust fuel mixture. My sender was giving readings of 75 ohms without the added ballast resistor when the engine was warmed up resulting in less than optimal temperature responsiveness.
Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Tests & Valve Adjustment
Tested Manifold Pressure Sensor (MPS) with Actron Vacuum Pump to 26 in Hg for 15 minutes without any leakage. Measured primary coil resistance of MPS (outer two leads) and found 98 ohms (spec 90 ohms). Measured secondary coil resistance of MPS (inner two leads) and found 382 ohms (spec 350 ohms). Thankfully, MPS is in good shape! However, spare from parts car has vacuum leak so I'm on the look out for a good spare.
With AAR fixed, set Idle Speed Limiter gap and tested vacuum side with Actron to 26 in Hg for 10 minutes without leakage.
Cold start valve has been bypassed with fuel by previous owner. Measured cold start valve coil resistance and found 4.8 ohms (spec 4.2 ohms). I will check for leaks when injectors are tested.
Valves adjusted. No "white" spot for #2/4 TDC, so created right angle cardboard template to find it and mark it with white-out. Location verified using spare fan and counting blades. New valve cover gaskets installed after scraping/cleaning old ones glued onto cover:(
With AAR fixed, set Idle Speed Limiter gap and tested vacuum side with Actron to 26 in Hg for 10 minutes without leakage.
Cold start valve has been bypassed with fuel by previous owner. Measured cold start valve coil resistance and found 4.8 ohms (spec 4.2 ohms). I will check for leaks when injectors are tested.
Valves adjusted. No "white" spot for #2/4 TDC, so created right angle cardboard template to find it and mark it with white-out. Location verified using spare fan and counting blades. New valve cover gaskets installed after scraping/cleaning old ones glued onto cover:(
D-Jet Ignition Upgrade
Upgraded ignition system with Pertronixs electronic ignition for the Bosch vacuum advance distributor, Bosch Blue coil, and Bosch W7DTC tri-electrode spark plugs. More info here.
Air Filter Replacement
The car did not come with an air cleaner filter. Efforts at finding a replacement here. SureFit Travis of shoptalkforums.com will send an extra OEM replacement filter from Prince George, BC - much appreciated!
Wednesday, June 6, 2007
Tuesday, May 8, 2007
Clock repair
Repaired a spare clock using wd40 to break the crud free and soldering the fusable link back with regular solder. Nates AircooledTech a big help! http://www.aircooledtech.com/vdo_repair/
I'll swap it in when I'm doing the master cylinder replacement.
I'll swap it in when I'm doing the master cylinder replacement.
Monday, May 7, 2007
Repair Update
Leak under dash -- finally leak caused short in turn signal relay resulting in no blinks; found antenna wire grommet through wheel well wall to be missing; replaced grommet with used spare and sealed with RTV sealant. Will monitor for more leak sources...
Horn -- tested horns with spare battery, fine; tested power line to fuse continuity, fine; tested continuity from horn switch to ground, open - so, removed steering wheel and found no contact between steering wheel contact ring and stationary contacts due to steering coupler not being fully seated against steering box - the side slot on the steering shaft is long enough to make connection with steering shaft, but cause a gap to the steering wheel where the horn contact is made; fully seating steering coupler on steering shaft fixed horn.
Window -- passenger window regulator was rusted and stuck -- window would not rollup; replaced with lubricated spare and reconnected glass to spare lift rail (original was rusted partially); cleaned door bottom of debris to ensure drainage and resealed vapor barrier.
Seat belt -- passenger seat belt retractor was difficult to pull out -- only went a few inches before getting stuck -- and made a aweful ratcheting sound on recoil. Found cover on gear side broken. Replaced with spare and lubricated shaft. Works great now, time to do drivers side to get better recoil...
Rear seat -- bench seat would not latch in up position. Found new carpet layed over original was preventing full recline for latching and latches were placed on reversed (left on right side). Removed original carpet under new and reversed latches for perfect operation.
Mileage -- 20 mpg mixed freeway/city; 17.5 mpg city only on 87 octane.
New issues:
Horn -- tested horns with spare battery, fine; tested power line to fuse continuity, fine; tested continuity from horn switch to ground, open - so, removed steering wheel and found no contact between steering wheel contact ring and stationary contacts due to steering coupler not being fully seated against steering box - the side slot on the steering shaft is long enough to make connection with steering shaft, but cause a gap to the steering wheel where the horn contact is made; fully seating steering coupler on steering shaft fixed horn.
Window -- passenger window regulator was rusted and stuck -- window would not rollup; replaced with lubricated spare and reconnected glass to spare lift rail (original was rusted partially); cleaned door bottom of debris to ensure drainage and resealed vapor barrier.
Seat belt -- passenger seat belt retractor was difficult to pull out -- only went a few inches before getting stuck -- and made a aweful ratcheting sound on recoil. Found cover on gear side broken. Replaced with spare and lubricated shaft. Works great now, time to do drivers side to get better recoil...
Rear seat -- bench seat would not latch in up position. Found new carpet layed over original was preventing full recline for latching and latches were placed on reversed (left on right side). Removed original carpet under new and reversed latches for perfect operation.
Mileage -- 20 mpg mixed freeway/city; 17.5 mpg city only on 87 octane.
New issues:
- Squeaking front wheel bearing
- Water in trunk under spare and on left under windshield washer tank; previous fiberglass repairs noted
- Smoke on startup occationally, especially after stopping when not warmed up
I really enjoy driving it -- smooth, simple, and different.
Sunday, April 15, 2007
Oly Wagen
I'm very happy with my new purchase - a 1973 VW 412 squareback. Purchased in Olympia from a mechanic, Randy, who got the car from a couple who had been restoring the car as a tour car for their boat. The car was transported on and off of a boat using a crane as they made trips down to San Francisco, etc. The car lost an exhaust valve and was given up on. Randy got the car after it was donated to the vocational school he taught at. No one wanted it as a project, so after a dare from the students, Randy decided to rebuild the engine. Randy is a muscle car mechanic, but with help from another vocational school teacher, it came together well. Randy only had driven the car a few hundred miles before he decided to sell it.I've been driving the car daily for a couple weeks. It runs smooth, but has a few issues:
- Shimmies at 45 mph
- Leak near drivers side windshield
- Passenger window regulator is shot
- Clock doesn't work
- Gas heater doesn't work
- Horn doesn't work
- Rust blisters in rear quarter panels
- Master cylinder has slight leak
When I got it, the driver seat back was broken. I replaced the back supports on the sides with parts from my other 412.
It's been great driving the 412. My 10 mile commute is along country roads often times with traffic, so the car is perfect.
The restored seats are very comfortable and the interior is in great shape. The engine is clean and leak free. Next on the agenda is to replace the window regulator, rebuild the master cylinder, and fix the horn and clock.
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